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INSTALLATION GUIDES
Stick down parquet is a very intricate job and can be difficult to get right, which is why we recommend sourcing a professional fitter if you’re going for stick down parquet. If you’re going for an engineered locking system parquet, you will need to lock the boards on top of an underlay – exactly like a normal engineered floor. The only different is the direction of the boards and the fact that you have alternating boards in most parquet designs.
During the life of the floor ambient humidity must be maintained within the range of 45% to 65% RH and 18 to 24°C. This includes during periods when the property is unoccupied such as during holidays. Please note that high humidity may lead to warping and other issues, whilst excessive drying caused by high temperature &/or low humidity may lead to splits and warping. Avoid rapid changes in temperature.
Wood is a natural product and it will change in a appearance and colour over time as it matures. Follow these guidelines and maintain the natural beauty of your floor.
All our Lacquered floors are finished with up to eight coats of hard wearing and easy maintenance lacquer or varnish.
Laminate flooring is installed by locking the boards on top of an underlay – this is known as a floating floor. You should start in a corner, working left to right. We would recommend using expansion spacers to ensure you leave the 10mm expansion gap around the room. We would recommend staggering the joints to ensure your floor looks natural and not too uniform.
It is important to understand what your wood floor is sealed with as it will affect the way you clean and maintain the surface. Lacquered or varnished floors will not need maintaining with oil but special care should be taken to avoid scratching as it can be more difficult to repair. Oiled floors will need periodic oil maintenance and should be commissioned with an extra coat of maintenance oil* for areas of high traffic and areas where spills are more likely.
Prevent accumulation of grit and abrasive dust which can scratch and dull the lacquered surface. Do this with regular sweeping and vacuuming and by installing barrier mats such as coir matting inside and outside all external doorways.
Protect all furniture with felt pads to avoid any scratching with movement.
Wipe up any spilled liquids and avoid any standing water or liquid as wood will absorb liquid and expand which could affect the stability of the floor. Any stains should be removed while wet with a clean damp cloth.
Avoid use of oil-based detergent or any household cleaners. These can be abrasive and damage or dull the surface and can leave a dangerous slippery film.
If using a mop and bucket with soap solution to clean the floor, avoid using too much water insuring the mop almost dry before application.
Hardwood Floors are a great solution for kitchens and dining spaces. Wood is naturally robust and can be maintained to keep the surface looking great. Lacquered floors are a good choice for Kitchens as they provide a surface that is stain resistant without the need for regular maintenance and can be rejuvenated when required with a light sand which keys the top coat of lacquer so an extra application of lacquer can be applied.
Alternatively oiled and hardwax oiled wood floors also perform well in busy kitchens but should always have an extra coat of maintenance oil* applied after installation. This commissioning coat is buffed into the factory oiled surface and ensures that the oil is evenly redistributed in the wood’s surface, it also adds a water resistant seal between the joints of each board. With periodic reapplication of maintenance oil this type of floor will last for generations without ever needing to be rejuvenated with sanding.
*Recommended Products: Ciranova Maintenance Oil Natural Matt
Solid wood floor can be installed in 3 main ways. You can opt for the nailing method and nail the boards directly to the subfloor. You can also choose to glue the floor directly to the subfloor with an adhesive. The last option is to use our Peel and Stick Underlay, which involves sticking the boards onto an adhesive-coated underlay. We do also offer the clip installation with our Junckers solid boards, which is where you use clips on the underside of the boards to secure them together.
We recommend using a pH neutral spray cleaner with a no abrasive micro fibre mop or cloth.
Instructions:
Vacuum clean to remove loose dirt.
Floor must be dry.
Shake the spray cleaner well before & during use.
Working in sections spray the surface.
Wipe the surface with the grain using a lint free cloth of microfibre mop pad
When finished, allow the floor to dry for 30 – 60 mins.
Rinse applicator pad with clean water.
NOTE: Always test on a small area in order to check the surface and the compatibility of the product.
NOTE: Always keep the amount of water used to clean the floor to a minimum.
Recommended Products:
Bona Spray Mop with Bona Wood Floor Cleaner Wood’s Good Lacquer Floor Cleaner with Mop Pad/ Kit
There are 3 methods of installing Luxury Vinyl Tiles (LVT). The first is glue down. These tiles are stuck down directly to the subfloor, much like the installation of traditional roll vinyl. The second option is similar to laminate installation. This is locking system, meaning you lock the tiles on top of an underlay as a floating floor. The last type is looselay, a new innovative way on installing vinyl. This is where the back of the boards has a grip backing that keeps them in place.
If a lacquered floor is old and has been used in heavy traffic conditions or badly maintained then it may be necessary to rejuvenate the lacquered surface.
The surface must first be “keyed” using a fine grit sand paper on a sanding machine. This allows a new coating of lacquer to be applied without sanding back to the bare wood.
Once the surface is prepared a coat of varnish/ lacquer can be applied.
This is usually a job best carried out by an experience floor finisher.
Daily/weekly cleaning consists of sweeping and vacuum cleaning. Sweep with a soft broom or dust-attracting flat head mop. When choosing a vacuum cleaner make sure it has a hard floor or parquet setting. Before you vacuum make sure this setting is selected and check the vacuum end for debris which could cause scratches. Floors can be periodically damp cleaned with an appropriate spray cleaning and mop pad or a well wrung out mop, avoiding use of excess moisture. NEVER WET MOP OR STEAM CLEAN WOODEN FLOORS. All spills should be wiped up immediately with an absorbent kitchen towel. Avoid abrasive micro fibre cloths and wet wipes. which can react with the lacquer or oil and remove the finish.
Using pH balanced Cleaner
Both lacquered and oiled finishes are semi permeable allowing the wood to breath. This means you should avoid using harsh chemical and abrasive cleaners on your hardwood or laminate wood floors.
Many ‘supermarket’ brands claim to work well on all surfaces including wood floors but most should be avoided as they contain high acidic or caustic ingredients that will quick compromise the lacquered or oiled surface of your floor, destroying the water and stain resistant properties.
*Recommended Products For Oiled Floors: - Bona Spray Mop with Bona Oiled Floor Cleaner - Wood’s Good Natural Floor Care Spray and Mop Pad/ Kit - Ciranova Flooring Soap
Recommended Products for Lacquered and Laminate Floors: - Bona Spray Mop with Bona Wood Floor Cleaner - Wood’s Good Lacquer Floor Cleaner with Mop Pad/ Kit
Installing engineered flooring is normally done by locking the boards on top of an underlay – this is called a floating floor. If your floor is 18mm+ in thickness, you will have to glue the tongue and groove joints to ensure they are secure. There are other methods of securing engineered floor, but we would recommend using the locking joint as it’s the most straightforward.
Wood is a natural product and it will change in a appearance and colour over time as it matures. Follow these guidelines and maintain the natural beauty of your floor.
Always have internal and external entrance matting at all entrances to the property; this will help prevent abrasive particles being carried onto the floor, and will extend the life of the floor finish. It is a good idea to fit mat wells so that the mat itself does not damage the floor.
This can be hard to get right, and we would only recommend this for solid, engineered and laminate floors. You will need to install the floor as ‘treads’, ‘risers’ and finish the steps off with a stair nosing. It’s important to remember vinyl and some carpets are not advised on the stairs.
Regular sweeping and vacuum cleaning to prevent accumulation of grit and abrasive dust which can scratch and dull the surface. Installing barrier mats such as coir matting inside and outside all external door ways will help to greatly reduce the amount of outside dirt and debris.
Take off heavy outdoor shoes and remove any wet or dirty footwear.
Protect all furniture with felt pads to avoid any scratching with movement.
Wipe up any spilt liquids and avoid any standing water or liquid as wood will absorb liquid and expand which could affect the stability of the floor. Any stains should be removed while wet with a clean damp cloth.
Avoid use of any household cleaners. These can be abrasive and damage or dull the surface and can leave a dangerous slippery film.
Avoid over use of wet cleaning methods.
Never wash your floor before vacuuming to avoid staining a floor with dirt.
Avoid abrasive microfibre mops and cloths which can damage the surface.
Avoid steam cleaners as they can force moisture into the floor.
Use self-adhesive felt pads on flat furniture feet to protect the floor from excessive scratching, and use felt based castor cups under wheeled furniture. A purpose made polypropylene floor mat must be used below wheeled office chairs. (Note: Heavy scratching will break the seal of the lacquer causing damage to the timber by ingress of dirt and moisture from cleaning.) Felt pads also give an added advantage of making heavy furniture easier to move.
We would advise not to install your floor underneath your kitchen units, but up to the edges of the units/appliances. This will save you time and money, and heavy appliances can give a risk of the floor buckling.
Underfloor heating beneath wood flooring presents special problems because of the wide range of temperature to which the flooring is subjected. During the summer or when the heat is turned off for long periods, high atmospheric humidity causes an increase in the moisture content of wood flooring which has been specially dried for heated conditions. This produces lifting or distortion if the floor has been too tightly jointed at the time of laying. When the heat is turned on again, the moisture content decreases, therefore a greater seasonal moisture content variation is to be expected with underfloor heating than with other forms of heating.
Follow the guidelines detailed in this section in conjunction with the installation guides for engineered floors.
For regular/ daily cleaning sweep and vacuum. Wipe up any liquid spills.
A) Take care when watering not to spill water around the base of any planter and avoid using metal trays as these can react with water and the natural tannins in oak to produce black watermarks.
B) A planter with soil soaked in water can cause the underside to be cold which can lead to condensation, so it is a good idea to use protective non-reactive plastic mats beneath pots and trays.
Damp clean with a suitable spray cleaner. A pH neutral / balanced cleaning solution. To avoid staining the floor always make sure the floor is vacuumed before damp cleaning.
If your floor requires a heavy clean then use a pH balanced floor soap mixed with a bucket of luke warm water and working with the grain where possible, apply with a well wrung mop or cloth. Use a second bucket for rinse water and change regularly to staining the floor with dirt. Avoid saturating the floor. Leave to dry before general use.
Recommended Products:
Bona Spray Mop with Bona Oiled Floor Cleaner Wood’s Good Natural Floor Care Spray and Mop Pad/ Kit Ciranova Flooring Soap
Undercutting the door frames allows a clean finished look. This is done by using an offcut of the floor and the underlay to template the height needed to take off the doorframes. Then, using a tenon saw or multi tool, cut away the bottom of the door frame. Next, you should slide the boards through, however due to many products being locking systems, the locking joint would need to be shaved off and the boards glued together (just in the doorways). Another option is to enter door thresholds, this allows natural expansion and is a must on most floors if the run is more than 12m (please refer to specific manufacturer’s installation guide).
Avoid accelerated drying of new concrete/screeds over UFH as this may lead to poor cohesive strength of the sub-floor.
Check the cohesive strength of screeds before adhering.
Ensure that screeds, concrete, etc are < 65% RH before installation commences.
Employ a suitable surface applied moisture barrier (e.g. moisture suppressant primer) where necessary.
If levelling is required above a suitable primer moisture barrier, apply a purpose-made fine graded aggregate over the second coat (on one coat membranes) OR third coat (on two coat membranes) immediately after application. Allow to cure then vacuum off all loose aggregate; (This will aid adhesion between primer and levelling compound). Then use a rapid dry formulae‚ water-mix (i.e. instead of latex mix) levelling compound, as these are typically stronger and develop strength quicker.
Ensure that levelling compounds are fully cured and dry before installation commences (see manufacturers technical data-sheets).
Use a purpose made, permanently flexible adhesive such as 1-part polyurethane, or Silicon Modi ed Polymer, when adhesive fixing.
Fully-bond, rather than use, liquid battens‚ type adhesive systems with UFH.
Ensure full contact between the underside of the flooring element and adhesive.
Maintain suitable ambient humidity 45 to 65% RH. (Monitor with a domestic hygrometer).
Employ floor temperature sensors below the floor with electric under floor heating systems.
With wet systems, zoning is recommended so the flow temperature can be controlled for the floor.
Wood is a natural material and is affected by UV light. As with the blackened oak beams of ancient houses all wood will mellow and change colour with sunlight. Oak will mellow and become darker and richer in tone whilst the grey brown of American black walnut will turn a more golden hue. Each species will react in different ways to UV light. In rooms with large windows, especially those which are south facing, special care should be taken to reposition furniture and rugs to ensure an even colour across the floor. Floors treated with stains and bleaches are more stable in strong UV conditions.
Natural Oiled floors must be commissioned before use with an extra coat of maintenance oil.
It is recommend that areas of high use should be maintained with oil periodically. The frequency of maintenance will depend on the usage of the floor. For example, a busy kitchen-diner in a family home or a room with heavy foot traffic and external doorways may need more regular attention perhaps once a year.
Whereas areas with less daily use, more internal rooms without regular external foot traffic such as living rooms and bedrooms may only occasionally need maintaining with oil.
Directions
First remove all dust and debris with vacuum cleaning
Wash the floor with intensive cleaner diluted with water and allow to fully dry. This will remove any impurities and cleaning residues. Note: Intensive cleaner should only ever be used prior to application of maintenance oil as it will remove some of the initial oiled surface.
Once fully dried apply maintenance oil. This can be hand applied or machine buffed. Take good care to remove any excess oil during application.
The floor will cure over night and spills and washing should be avoided over the next 48 hours. Thereafter the floor may be cleaned with a damp cloth or mop pad and will be fully cured within 7 days where upon fully cleaning can be carried out with appropriate pH neutral cleaner as required.
NOTE: Cloths/ rags and pads used in oil application should put in water for 12 hours before disposal or reuse to avoid spontaneous combustion while the oil cures. Please check packaging for details.
Recommended Products:
Ciranova Maintenance Oil Natural Matt Ciranova Intensive Cleaner
Do not use solid flooring, V4 Woodflooring does not recommend solid wood floorings for UFH applications or high movement hardwood species such as Beech and Maple.
Do not allow humidity below 45% RH, or above 65% RH. (A small domestic humidification unit can be employed to avoid low humidity during the winter heating cycle if necessary.
Do not allow the floor temperature to exceed 27°C, (including under rugs).
Do not use thick insulating rugs. (Note: as this will lead to high floor temperatures).
When possible avoid wearing outside shoes especially if wet or muddy. Stiletto heels may damage wood floor finish and cause compression marks on some wood species, and are not recommended for use on wood floor. Avoid heavy work boots with abrasive soles and thick treads which can retain abrasive objects such as gravel stones. In areas of high foot traffic pay special attention to daily cleaning and where possible use protective rugs and matting.
Most design-orientated experts suggest you should lay the flooring running away from the main light source, which in most instances means running it from the front door, straight to the back of the house if you’re installing an entire floor. In actual fact, there is no right or wrong direction to lay your floor, it’s all down to personal preference.
Wood is a natural product and it will change in a appearance and colour over time as it matures. Follow these guidelines and maintain the natural beauty of your floor.
We have a dedicated network of professional fitting teams that work directly for our company, this insures that we can control the quality of our work at all times. The various fitting teams have had extensive training at the highest levels.
A) Keep pets’ claws well trimmed to avoid scratches and protect areas where they sleep and feed to avoid damage from moisture and spills.
B) Always protect flooring around your pet’s food and water bowls from spills and standing water.
Selection of species for use in floors subject to underfloor heating should be limited to those with particularly small thermal and moisture movement or should be as recommended by manufacturers who have extensive experience in the supply of flooring to be used over underfloor heating. Construction which permits an air space directly under the floor should be avoided as this can cause undesirable temperature fluctuations but advice on this should be taken from the manufacturers of the underfloor heating.
Before floor laying begins, the following procedure should be followed:
The screed should be dried in accordance with BS8201:2011. Once the screed is dry to a maximum level of <75% RH, or <65% RH for floors directly bonded to the screed, the underfloor heating should be commissioned in accordance with the underfloor heating manufacturers guidelines where available.
Do not use the UFH for 48 hours after the installation is complete. This gives the adhesive time to fully cure and allows the floor to generally settle.
Do not turn the system straight up to maximum. Gradually increase the temperature 1°C per day until you reach your optimum operating temperature. And never exceed 27°C at the surface temperature.
We strongly recommend a dual thermostat system is used to monitor the surface temperature and the ambient temperature of the room. Throughout the life of the flooring avoid any rapid or big temperature changes as fluctuating the heat within the product runs the risk of drying out the timber. This can result in dimensional changes causing the floor to split and crack.
Manufacturer’s recommendations should be followed.
Regular sweeping and vacuum cleaning to prevent accumulation of grit and abrasive dust which can scratch and dull the surface. Installing barrier mats such as coir matting inside and outside all external door ways will help to greatly reduce the amount of outside dirt and debris.
Take off heavy outdoor shoes and remove any wet or dirty footwear.
Protect all furniture with felt pads to avoid any scratching with movement.
Wipe up any spilt liquids and avoid any standing water or liquid as wood will absorb liquid and expand which could affect the stability of the floor. Any stains should be removed while wet with a clean damp cloth.
Avoid use of any household cleaners. These can be abrasive and damage or dull the surface and can leave a dangerous slippery film.
Avoid over use of wet cleaning methods.
Never wash your floor before vacuuming to avoid staining a floor with dirt.
Avoid abrasive microfibre mops and cloths which can damage the surface.
Avoid steam cleaners as they can force moisture into the floor.
Avoid standing water or liquid. Wipe up any liquid spills quickly and never allow spills to stay on the surface for any length of time. If moisture ingresses into the surface of your floor it may cause lasting damage. Oil and oil fried food can react with oiled surfaces and should be wiped up directly.
We would recommend using a cleaner specifically made for your chosen floor with a lightly damp mop. We would strongly advise against the use of steam mops on any of our floors.
We would advise using the Bona spray mop designed for cleaning laminate floors effectively. This kit comes with the cleaner, the mop, the microfibre cloth and a cleaning spray.
A) When protecting your floor, where possible avoid covering with plastic sheeting or any material which does not breathe as it can form condensation. Instead use card or fabric dust sheeting.
B) When using masking tape to paint round architrave and skirting, DO NOT leave tape on the floor longer than it takes to paint each coat. If left for more than a couple of hours, tape adhesive can react with the floor finish causing damage. C) If paint is spilled remember that cleaning fluids may damage the floor so avoid if possible, instead use mild soap and a nylon brush to work away the paint.
For regular/ daily cleaning sweep and vacuum. Wipe up any liquid spills.
The flooring installer should ensure that all services (not only heating services) running beneath the floor have been tested fully by the services installer before laying starts.
We would point you towards either the Kahrs Floor Cleaner or the Quickstep Oil Care to effectively clean your wood floor without damaging it. The Kahrs Cleaner is used by diluting in water and applied with a lightly damp mop. For oiled wood, we would recommend using the Quickstep Oil Care which needs to be diluted like the Kahrs cleaner.
Damp clean with a suitable spray cleaner. A pH neutral / balanced cleaning solution. To avoid staining the floor always make sure the floor is vacuumed before damp cleaning.
If your floor requires a heavy clean then use a pH balanced floor soap mixed with a bucket of luke warm water and working with the grain where possible, apply with a well wrung mop or cloth. Use a second bucket for rinse water and change regularly to staining the floor with dirt. Avoid saturating the floor. Leave to dry before general use.
Recommended Products:
Bona Spray Mop with Bona Oiled Floor Cleaner Wood’s Good Natural Floor Care Spray and Mop Pad/ Kit Ciranova Flooring Soap
As a guide allow a minimum 12mm expansion wherever the floor meets obstacles including perimeters walls, structural supports, hearths etc.
Create additional expansion breaks in doorways using suitable profiles such as T-section thresholds or other transition strips.
Create additional expansion breaks in large floors.
Where practical install flooring parallel to the longest walls so that the direction of greatest potential expansion (i.e. across the grain) does not coincide with the direction of greatest dimension, esp. in large floors.
The precise combined provision for expansion must be judged by the installer taking into account environmental humidity, moisture content of wood at time of installation, timber species and size of the floor.
We would recommend using our specifically designed cleaners diluted in water as per the directions on the packaging. This should be done with a lightly damp mop to ensure you aren’t being too harsh on the floor. We would recommend against using any bleach-based or soap-based products on your vinyl floor.
Means of keeping the flooring dry and stable in the period between laying and handing over should be provided.
For areas of high traffic such as Kitchens (or in commercial installations) an initial application of maintenance oil is recommended to commission the floor, adding extra protection where needed. This will enhance and prolong the the usability of the Hardwax oiled surface.
It is recommend that areas of high use should be maintained with oil periodically. The frequency of maintenance will depend on the usage of the floor. For example, a busy kitchen-diner in a family home or a room with heavy foot traffic and external doorways may need more regular attention perhaps once a year.
Where-as areas with less daily use, more internal rooms without regular external foot traffic such as living rooms and bedrooms may never or only occasionally need maintaining with oil.
Directions
First remove all dust and debris with vacuum cleaning
Wash the floor with intensive cleaner diluted with water and allow to fully dry. This will remove any impurities and cleaning residues. Note: Intensive cleaner should only ever be used prior to application of maintenance oil as it will remove some of the initial oiled surface.
Once fully dried apply maintenance oil. This can be hand applied or machine buffed. Take good care to remove any excess oil during application.
The floor will cure over night and spills and washing should be avoided over the next 48 hours. Thereafter the floor may be cleaned with a damp cloth or mop pad and will be fully cured within 7 days where upon fully cleaning can be carried out with appropriate pH neutral cleaner as required.
NOTE: Cloths/ rags and pads used in oil application should put in water for 12 hours before disposal or reuse to avoid spontaneous combustion while the oil cures. Please check packaging for details.
Recommended Products:
Ciranova Maintenance Oil Natural Matt Ciranova Intensive Cleaner
Wood is a natural product and it will change in a appearance and colour over time as it matures. Follow these guidelines and maintain the natural beauty of your floor.
Where underfloor heating is involved, particular attention should be paid to ensure that the top surface temperature of the wood flooring should not exceed 27°C. Some electrical underfloor heating systems are not compatible with timber flooring and the manufacturer of the timber flooring should always be consulted before installing over underfloor heating systems, particularly regarding the moisture content, species of the timber and specific installation guidelines. It is most important that electrical UFH systems must be overlaid with a fibre reinforced smoothing compound of not less than 5mm. No direct contact of any electrical matting should come into contact with the wood floor itself. Please seek the advice of the UFH manufacturer’s instructions to confirm compatibility with wood flooring.
Do not use the UFH for 48 hours after the installation is complete. This gives the adhesive time to fully cure and allows the floor to generally settle.
Do not turn the system straight up to maximum. Gradually increase the temperature 1°C per day until you reach your optimum operating temperature. And never exceed 27°C at the surface temperature.
We strongly recommend a dual thermostat system is used to monitor the surface temperature and the ambient temperature of the room. Throughout the life of the flooring avoid any rapid or big temperature changes as fluctuating the heat within the product runs the risk of drying out the timber. This can result in dimensional changes causing the floor to split and crack.
Important notes
Always check the mutual compatibility of moisture barriers, primers, aggregates, levelling compounds and adhesives before installation.
We would recommend sweeping/vacuuming your laminate floor regularly to ensure dust isn’t settling into the texture of the boards. We would also advise to use one of our recommended cleaners to effectively clean the floor without damaging it. Be sure to use our cleaner on a lightly damp mop, and not to use any abrasive materials like a scouring pad.
Regular sweeping and vacuum cleaning to prevent accumulation of grit and abrasive dust which can scratch and dull the surface. Installing barrier mats such as coir matting inside and outside all external door ways will help to greatly reduce the amount of outside dirt and debris.
Take off heavy outdoor shoes and remove any wet or dirty footwear.
Protect all furniture with felt pads to avoid any scratching with movement.
Wipe up any spilt liquids and avoid any standing water or liquid as wood will absorb liquid and expand which could affect the stability of the floor. Any stains should be removed while wet with a clean damp cloth.
Avoid use of any household cleaners. These can be abrasive and damage or dull the surface and can leave a dangerous slippery film.
Avoid over use of wet cleaning methods.
Never wash your floor before vacuuming to avoid staining a floor with dirt.
Avoid abrasive microfibre mops and cloths which can damage the surface.
Avoid steam cleaners as they can force moisture into the floor.
All of the engineered floors in our collection can be used with underfloor heating but we recommend reading this detailed Installation with Underfloor Heating guide before your installation.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The flooring installer should ensure that all services (not only heating services) running beneath the floor have been tested fully by the services installer before laying starts.
Underfloor heating beneath wood flooring presents special problems because of the wide range of temperature to which the flooring is subjected.
NOTE: Installation should be fully bonded when possible to insure optimum heat transfer.
The following information will help you get the most from your heating whilst keeping you wood floor in good condition.
Do not allow humidity below 45% RH, or above 65% RH. (A small domestic humidification unit can be employed to avoid low humidity during the winter heating cycle if necessary).
Do not allow the floor temperature to exceed 27°C, (including under rugs).
Avoid thick insulating rugs. (Note: as this will lead to high floor temperatures).
Do not commission the UFH for 48 hours after the installation is complete. This gives the adhesive time to fully cure and allows the floor to generally settle.
Do not turn the system straight up to maximum. Gradually increase the temperature 1°C per day until you reach your optimum operating temperature. And never exceed 27°C at the surface temperature. We strongly recommend a dual thermostat system is used to monitor the surface temperature and the ambient temperature of the room.
Do not turn the heating on or off suddenly. Throughout the life of the flooring avoid any rapid or big temperature changes as fluctuating the heat within the product runs the risk of drying out the timber. This can result in dimensional changes causing the floor to split and crack. Where underfloor heating is involved, particular attention should be paid to ensure that the top surface temperature of the wood flooring should not exceed 27°C.
This advice can be used for all wood floors, including solid, engineered and parquets. We would advise to use one of our recommended cleaners diluted in water, and to wipe along the grain of the boards to ensure you don’t wear down the natural texture of the boards. It’s best to avoid high heels or any other pointy objects near the floor as it can ruin the finish of the wood.
If you have any damage to your floor, give Weknowflooring a call and we would be happy to provide you further guidance.
Generally a vinyl floor may start to look dull and scratched. A laminate floor may happen to get a noticeable scratch/dent in the surface. For solid, engineered and parquet floors, the wood may also have a scratch/dent in the surface.
DIY repairs often do not work and so we would always recommend that you call us to arrange a professional and carry out a site visit and inspection.
Relative Humidity Must Be Correct
The Relative Humidity (RH) which is a measurement of how much moisture is present in the air. The correct RH of a room’s atmosphere, for wood flooring to be installed, falls between 45-65% with an ambient temperature between 18 to 24°C. If necessary employ a dehumidifier to maintain suitable conditions.
NOTE: Wood Floors are generally not suitable for bathrooms where there is regular running water or an accumulation of water vapour.
Wet Trades & Decorating Should Be Dry
All wet trades such as concreting, screening and plastering should be completed and the building should be thoroughly dried out. Wood is a hygroscopic material and will absorb any excessive moisture which can cause problems.
NOTE: Plaster may take several months to dry satisfactorily and concrete screeds depending on thickness may take considerably longer. As a rule of thumb drying time for cement and water based screed is one day per millimetre for the first 50 mm and unto 2.5 days for each subsequent millimetre.
IMPORTANT: As with all screeds please consult the manufacturer for precise drying times and accelerated drying with heat should be avoided as this may weaken the screed. Decorating should be completed where possible, and paint should be completely dry as this can also add moisture to the room. Any sanding should be done before the floor is laid as fine dust can permeate into the wood and can be impossible to remove without damaging the surface.
Room Temperature Must Be Just Right
Room Temperature will have an effect on relative humidity and should be stable before your flooring is delivered to site. Heating including underfloor heating should be fully tested and working for at least two weeks before the flooring is laid. Room temperature should be between 18 to 24°C.
Direct Heat Sources Must Be Insulated
Flooring must not be exposed to excess heat such as from hot water pipes below floors.
For regular/ daily cleaning sweep and vacuum. Wipe up any liquid spills.
Damp clean with a suitable spray cleaner. A pH neutral / balanced cleaning solution. To avoid staining the floor always make sure the floor is vacuumed before damp cleaning.
If your floor requires a heavy clean then use a pH balanced floor soap mixed with a bucket of luke warm water and working with the grain where possible, apply with a well wrung mop or cloth. Use a second bucket for rinse water and change regularly to staining the floor with dirt. Avoid saturating the floor. Leave to dry before general use.
Recommended Products:
Bona Spray Mop with Bona Oiled Floor Cleaner Wood’s Good Natural Floor Care Spray and Mop Pad/ Kit Ciranova Flooring Soap
Subfloor Preparation
The subfloor is key to a successful installation and will help ensure your floor performs to its very best. The subfloor is likely to be either wooden or a cement based screed.
Sweep and vacuum to remove any dust and debris, Any decorators dust should be removed as this can be very abrasive and hard if not impossible to remove from the surface of a floor without drastic sanding and resealing. Existing floor coverings should be removed, this includes carpets, underlays, parquet blocks, ceramic tiles and any adhesive residues should be removed. It is important to do this so the subfloor can be verified as stable.
Subfloors Should Be Level
The subfloor must be free from excessive undulation and flat to within 3 millimetres over 2 lineal metres across the whole floor area. This means a maximum 3 mm gap under a 2 m long straight edge, at any point across the subfloor. Failure to keep to these tolerances may result in squeaking or deflection which may produce undue stresses on the joints, cause gaps between flooring elements and with fully bonded floors may result in inadequate contact between flooring and adhesive.
Subfloors Should Be Structurally Sound
Wood Flooring should only be laid on a subfloor which is structurally sound and free from movement. To prevent movement wooden subfloors must be of load bearing strength and free from deflection under loading. Suspended wooden subfloors should typically consist of a suitable board of 22 mm thickness on joist or battens at 600 mm centres or 18 mm thickness on 400 mm centres. For other types of suspended floor please check with the manufacturer.
Moisture Content Of Wooden Subfloors
Wooden sub-floors should contain no more than 11% moisture content and must not be more than 2% higher in moisture than the Wood Flooring. When installing wood flooring at ground floor level (or below) above a ventilated cavity (e.g. floorboards suspended on joist), it is essential that a purpose made moisture barrier building paper is installed over the sub-floor before flooring can be installed. The moisture barrier must taken up the walls by 30 mm at the perimeter, and all joints overlapped by a minimum 200 mm and taped with a water proof jointing tape.
Moisture Condition Of Concrete Subfloors
Concrete slabs and sand-cement screeds must be sound, dry, free of laitance and other substances which may impair adhesion (e.g. Bitumen adhesive residues etc). Mineral based sub-floors must be less than 75% equilibrium relative humidity and less than 65% relative humidity for glue down of engineered flooring. Anhydrite screeds must be less than 0.3% actual moisture content. Sub-floors at ground level or below must contain an effective damp proof membrane to protect flooring from ground water in compliance with British Standards. If there is any doubt that the sub-floor meets the required standard for moisture or the sub-floor does not have an effective integral damp proof membrane, a suitable surface applied damp proof membrane must be installed.
Acclimatisation
Acclimatising is used to balance the wood flooring with the environment it is going to be used in. Once you are satisfied that the correct preparations have been made, your floor can be delivered and as part of your guarantee conditions, it is essential to acclimatise your flooring prior to installation. Your floor should be kept in it’s sealed, unopened boxes and should only be laid flat, ideally in the room in which it is to be installed or as close to typical living conditions as possible.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not store packs outside or anywhere with different ambient conditions to the rooms where it is to be installed. If your flooring is not correctly acclimatised planks can warp and bow and become difficult or impossible to install. Engineered wood floors should acclimatise for at least 3 days and solid floors should have at least 7 days. Note: A certain amount of bowing in engineered floors is common and if the bowing is no more than 25 mm then these boards can be installed and will lay flat with a random staggered laying pattern.
NOTE: Our wood flooring should be acclimatised in it’s sealed packaging. As the packs are not airtight and allow the wood to breath whilst supporting the boards so that they do not warp.
For areas of high traffic such as Kitchens (or in commercial installations) an initial application of maintenance oil is recommended to commission the floor, adding extra protection where needed. This will enhance and prolong the the usability of the oiled surface.
It is recommend that areas of high use should be maintained with oil periodically. The frequency of maintenance will depend on the usage of the floor. For example, a busy kitchen-diner in a family home or a room with heavy foot traffic and external doorways may need more regular attention perhaps once a year.
Whereas areas with less daily use, more internal rooms without regular external foot traffic such as living rooms and bedrooms may never or only occasionally need maintaining with oil.
Directions
First remove all dust and debris with vacuum cleaning
Wash the floor with intensive cleaner diluted with water and allow to fully dry. This will remove any impurities and cleaning residues. Note: Intensive cleaner should only ever be used prior to application of maintenance oil as it will remove some of the initial oiled surface.
Once fully dried apply maintenance oil. This can be hand applied or machine buffed. Take good care to remove any excess oil during application.
The floor will cure over night and spills and washing should be avoided over the next 48 hours. Thereafter the floor may be cleaned with a damp cloth or mop pad and will be fully cured within 7 days where upon fully cleaning can be carried out with appropriate pH neutral cleaner as required.
NOTE: Cloths/ rags and pads used in oil application should put in water for 12 hours before disposal or reuse to avoid spontaneous combustion while the oil cures. Please check packaging for details.
Recommended Products:
Ciranova Maintenance Oil Natural Matt Ciranova Intensive Cleaner
Type Of Installation
Engineered floors can be installed as floating floors over Wood’s Good underlay or fully bonded using Wood’s Good Flexible MS adhesives. 18 -20 mm floors may be fixed to wooden subfloors using secret nails.
Direction Of Floor
Where practical install floor parallel to the longest walls so that the direction of greatest potential expansion (i.e. across the width and grain) does not coincide with the direction of greatest dimension of the floor, especially in large areas. Before you install the first row measure the width of the room and divide this measurement by the width of the board, this will give you the number of rows of boards. This is useful as the last row should not be less then 60 mm. If it is then the first down should be rip cut along the length to make the last row wider.
When Your Are Ready To Lay – Check For Defects
Check each board before it is installed for possible damage or defects, this is important as installed defects are the responsibility of the installer as the installer is the last line of quality control.
The Installer Is The Last Line Of Quality Control
Samples must be taken as a guide only and colour/shade and other characteristics will vary. Before installation commences rack out a small section of boards for the client approval. The installer is the last line of quality control. This product may include up to 3-5% of boards which do not meet the normal tolerances or grade.
NOTE: The installer is the last line of quality control. DO NOT INSTALL BOARDS WITH OBVIOUS DEFECTS.
Wastage
Wood flooring should always be over ordered by 10% of the actual area required. This allows for wastage material which may include boards with natural blemishes or filled knots that are within the grading tolerance but are not your taste. It is also good practise to keep at least a pack of flooring stored in case flooring from the same batch is required for any unforeseen repair work.
Randomised Installation
To achieve the desired mix of colours, shades and other characteristics in the final floor, and to avoid clusters of characteristics such as knots, the contents of multiple packs should be mixed during installation.
Avoid Grouping similar colours and grain pattern By not mixing the planks before installation areas of dark and light planks can look patchy and out of place.
Laying Pattern
For installation of flooring planks which run in the same direction, header-joints must be staggered by a minimum of two board widths apart. It is also important to even patterns across the floor as this can cause dimensional weaknesses as the floor expands and contracts.
Correct Staggered Laying Pattern
Header joints should be staggered by length equivalent to at least two boards width. This random stagger will stabilise the floor and limit any dimensional movement as the wood naturally expands and contracts.
Incorrect Pattern – Header Joints Are Too Close
The header joints are too close in this pattern and will cause a line of weakness in the floor which could open up as the floor expands and contacts.
Incorrect Pattern – Header Joints Lined Up Across The Floor
Avoid this type of ‘H’ pattern where header joints line up as it will lead to weak points in the floor where parallel boards may warp and cause an accumulation of excessive movement.
LVT and Laminate can be perceived as similar and they do have a lot of differences, but the main differences are the boards themselves. Most LVTs are installed by sticking them straight down, which you can’t do with laminate. It’s also important to remember most laminates aren't water resistant (except our waterproof laminates) whereas all LVT are completely waterproof.
This video shows how to clean and prepare a floor with Intensive Cleaner before application of Ciranova Maintenance Oil by hand and with buffing machine. It also shows subsequent cleaning with Flooring soap which should only be done after 2 days. If you are unsure please remember to consult an expert first.
This video shows how to clean and prepare a floor with Intensive Cleaner before application of Ciranova Maintenance Oil by hand and with buffing machine. It also shows subsequent cleaning with Flooring soap which should only be done after 2 days. If you are unsure please remember to consult an expert first.
Engineered wood flooring may be installed as a floating floor, which means that the boards are joined together and loose laid over the subfloor,, instead of being fully bonded with adhesive or secret nailed. This is achieved firstly by laying a 3mm or thicker purpose made underlay at 90° to the planned direction of the flooring, then laying the flooring and bonding the interlocking boards at the tongue and groove joints with a D3 grade moisture resistance PVAC adhesive.
PVAC Adhesive Application
When bonding tongue & groove parquet PVAC adhesive should be applied evenly with a continuous bead, along the top of the grooved joint. The following panel (tongue) should be firmly pressed in to the groove to ensure a tight fit. A wooden block can be used to assist and to prevent damage to the tongue. If extra strength is required PVAC adhesive should be applied evenly to both top and bottom of the groove. Do not inject adhesive into the base of the of the groove (e.g. as the groove edge of the boards face upward vertically) as this may prevent the tongue and groove joints from closing.
NOTE: Its is strongly recommended that both header and length joints be bonded with PVAC and NEVER spot glue, to avoid weakness and potential gapping as the floor naturally expands and contracts.
Underlay & Damp Proofing
It is strongly recommended that a purpose made impermeable moisture barrier is used below floating wood floors. The moisture membrane may be used in the form of 1000 gauge polythene damp proof membrane for concrete which is laid over the sub-floor before the underlay, then flooring is laid. Alternatively an underlay which incorporates a moisture resistant barrier may be used. In either case the moisture membrane is taken vertically up the wall and trimmed off above the finished level of the wood floor surface. All moisture barriers must be taped at the joins with a purpose made jointing tape. Polythene damp proof membranes are overlapped by 200 mm or greater before joins are taped.
Floated Installation – Important Notes
L-shaped halls are better suited to fully bonded installation than floating.
If installing as a floating floor in L-shaped areas, in commercial use, or over under floor heating ensure that the joints are double bonded with adhesive applied to the upper and lower portion of the groove.
Where necessary use flooring straps to achieve closed joints.
Flooring must not be exposed to artificial heat sources such as from heated pipes at shallow depth below screeds, or suspended pipes below floorboards. Pipes must be thoroughly insulated.
Provision For Expansion – Important Note
Wood flooring is affected by seasonal climactic changes and will expand and contract, so it is important to allow room for this expansion. Expansion spaces of minimum 12mm for floors less than 25m2 or minimum 15 mm for larger areas must be left wherever the floors meets obstructions including all walls, door frames, thresholds, structural support, fireplaces etc. These expansion gaps can be covered using the skirting, or edge trim (e.g. Scotia, Quadrant). It is recommended that an expansion break is always employed where rooms join. T- Bar threshold strips can be used for this purpose. Alternatively where wood floors meet other floor coverings a suitable Reducer threshold strip may be used.
Engineered and Solid look identical once laid, but the composition of the boards is different and mean they have different versatility rates. Engineered wood can go in most rooms except for bathrooms, whereas solid can only go in living spaces and the stairs.
Engineered wood flooring may be installed direct to concrete or sandcement screed sub-floors, or to suitable wood based sub-floors (e.g. Plywood, OSB) by fully-bonding with a purpose made permanently flexible adhesive (e.g. 1 component Polyurethane or SMP). Wood’s Good MS and MS Plus floor adhesive is fully tested with all V4 Wood Flooring products and is recommended. The adhesive is applied to the sub-floor only using a V-notched trowel, which creates ridges of adhesive which the flooring is bedded into when laid. Always use the trowel type which is recommended by the manufacturer of the flooring adhesive for the type of wood flooring being installed and replace worn trowels.
Fully Bonding – Important Notes
When installing flooring uplift occasional boards after placement and examine the residues of adhesive on the underside of the board to ensue the board is making full with the bed of adhesive.
For UFH hot water system embedded into concrete full bond is recommended as it improves the TOG rating.
Previous floor coverings and the adhesive residues used to adhere floor coverings to sub-floors must be removed before bonding of wood flooring.
Ensure screeds are of adequate cohesion strength of before installation.
Avoid accelerated drying of new screeds as this can lead to poor cohesive strength, especially over under floor heating.
Always check the recommendations of the applicable adhesive manufacturer, esp. regarding other sub-floors. e.g. asphalt, anhydrite etc.
Some chipboard products have a moisture resistant treatment which can seriously impair adhesion. A layer of plywood may be laid over and securely fixed to the chipboard before installation may commence.
Any residues of MS type adhesives which come into contact with the face of the board must be removed whilst wet, as cured residues are not removable.
Concrete slabs if fully bonding down engineered flooring must be <65% relative humidity. Testing of subfloors must comply with BS8201 Code of practice for wood based products & BS 8204 Screeds, bases and in situ flooring.
Provision For Expansion – Important Note
Even fully bonded wood flooring is affected by seasonal climactic changes and will expand and contract, so it is important to allow room for this expansion. Expansion spaces of minimum 12mm for floors less than 25m2 or minimum 15 mm for larger areas must be left wherever the floors meets obstructions including all walls, door frames, thresholds, structural support, fireplaces etc. These expansion gaps can be covered using the skirting, or edge trim (e.g. Scotia, Quadrant). It is recommended that an expansion break is always employed where rooms join. T- Bar threshold strips can be used for this purpose. Alternatively where wood floors meet other floor coverings a suitable Reducer threshold strip may be used.
This video shows how to clean and prepare a floor with Intensive Cleaner before application of Ciranova Maintenance Oil by hand and with buffing machine. It also shows subsequent cleaning with Flooring soap which should only be done after 2 days. If you are unsure please remember to consult an expert first.
This guide will give you basic advice on how to layout and install Classic Herringbone engineered parquet blocks in a herringbone pattern. It is important to first read and understand the Hardwood Flooring Installation guide which you can find here.
Our Classic Herringbone flooring collection is a bevel edged engineered parquet block which does not require sanding and filling like traditional solid parquet blocks. Once the sub floor has been correctly prepared and is fully level, dry and primed, Classic Herringbone can be installed using the correct flooring adhesive. We recommend Mapei Ultrabond Eco S940 1K which provides excellent grab and is fully tested with Classic Herringbone.
Classic Herringbone can be installed in many different patterns as the blocks are universal(not left and right) as they have one tongue and 3 grooves. Please note that some patterns will require false tongues to ensure a stable installation.
For Herringbone styles where the blocks overlap side and header joints, false tongues are not required.
We would recommend using either Luxury Vinyl Tiles (LVT) or Laminate flooring in the kitchen. We also have waterproof laminates that are even better than regular laminate for the kitchen. Engineered, solid and carpet are not advised for use in the kitchen.
Luxury Vinyl Tiles and waterproof laminate are perfect for the bathroom as they’re completely waterproof and hard-wearing. We would definitely recommend against using any form of wood or carpet in the bathroom, as the moisture can damage these floors.
The site conditions and subfloor are prepared and the flooring has been fully acclimatised as per our Hardwood Flooring Installation guide.
It is important to be precise with a herringbone installation so ensuring the first row is correctly positioned and square is key. The following method makes layout simple using a perfect square template to set the first row. Ensure the square template is screwed to the subfloor so it can be easily removed once the first row is set. Once correctly positioned the square template will give a solid start point making it easier to move the blocks into position without gaps opening up.
Plan the direction of the herringbone pattern, usually this will follow the length of the room.
Find the centre of the room and use a plumb line to mark out a centre line. The apex of the first row of blocks will run along this line. Note: If the centre line is used to align the square template then the row apex will be offset by the depth of the tongue which is approximately 5 mm. If total accuracy is required then first find the room’s centre line and then mark an offset guide line 5 mm to it’s right and use this line to place the square template. The template should have sides equal to, or greater than the length of the blocks.
Starting close to the wall place the square template so that the offset guide line bisects square diagonally from opposite angles. Once positioned screw the template to the subfloor.
Working from this template will ensure the first row’s apex follows the centre line.
Standing on or behind the square template, apply Mapei Ultrabond Eco S940 1K adhesive with a Mapei Trowel to the area in front of the square. Note: It is good practise to loose lay the first row to make sure you are happy with the orientation guide line and placement of the square template. Tip: It is also important to mix the blocks to ensure an even distribution of grade, grain and colour variation across the finished floor
As per the diagram below, place block 1, with tongue against the left hand side of the square template so that the leading header is in line with the right hand edge of the square template
Place block 2 with tongue facing away so that the grooved edge is pressed against both the header joint of block 1 and the righthand side of the square template.
Repeat points 6 & 7 placing blocks onto the bed of adhesive ensuring that they connect, the leading corner of the herringbone pattern should be positioned over the centre line which is 5 mm left of the guide line. Tip: Use a hammer and tapping block to push the blocks together, occasionally lift a block and check the adhesive has full coverage.
Once the first row has reached the opposite end of the room or the finish point, use a tapping block and hammer to make any adjustments while the adhesive is still wet and remove any adhesive which has not been covered. Important Tip: Remove any adhesive spills from the face of the blocks while it is wet with a damp cloth before the adhesive sets. Allow the adhesive to fully cure and this row will form a fixed point template for subsequent rows.
The complexity of measuring your room normally depends on the shape of the room. We recommend splitting the room into rectangles and calculate the area of each rectangle by multiplying the length and width together. We also advise to add 5-10% wastage depending on which floor you go for.
Working off the first row, loose lay the second row placing checking that that the apex of the second row is parallel to the centre line.
Once you are happy to install, apply adhesive to the area adjacent to the first row.
Starting at the ‘End Wall’, install the first half of the second row in two halves. The first block(19) should be placed so that the long grooved edge is pressed against the header joint from the last block in the first row (18) and the header joint groove connects with the next section of exposed tongue the next block(16) in the first row. Repeat this process with the first half the second row until the square template is reached.
Once the first half of the second row is in place there is no need to wait for the adhesive to set. The second half of the second row is installed. Beginning at the ‘Start Wall’ place the next block(28) so that the long grooved edge is pressed against the header joint of the last block (27) and the grooved header joint connect with the exposed tongue of the next block(26)
Repeat this process to fill both sides of the first row cutting blocks to fit the perimeter of the room so that adequate expansion gap is maintained which can then be covered by skirting or moulding.
A border may be installed using a plunge saw to cut away the blocks to make the required space. A groove can then be machined into the cut edge so that blocks can be joined.
It’s vital to make sure your new floor is suitable for the room you’re installing it in. We would recommend keeping wood away from moisture and in rooms like bathrooms, opt for vinyl or waterproof laminate. Keep vinyl off stairs, and solid wood away from basements and conservatories.
The main things you should consider are; the room it’s going in, the size of the room, if you have underfloor heating, how it’s installed and how long it will last.
Commercial grade floors should be used in commercial/business spaces. Most of our floor types have certain ranges that are suitable for commercial use due to the thickness, finish or wear layer.
Most of our floors can be used with underfloor heating, regarding you use the correct adhesive / underlay with the floor that’s designed to withstand the temperature. You will also require some form of Damp proof membrane (DPM) between the heating and your new floor, to protect the floor from the moisture.
Acclimatising is essential for your floor to adjust to the humidity of your home. We would recommend leaving the floors in their packs flat on the floor in the room they’re going to be installed in. It can take from 2 days – 2 weeks depending on the floor type you go for.
There are an extensive range of laminate trims that colour match individual coloured laminates.
Beading (also called scotia) is designed to bridge the gap between your floor and skirting board, but which one you opt for is entirely up to you! You can choose a white beading to match the skirting boards, or you can go for a match to the floor itself. It’s all about your personal preference.
Stair nosing is used to finish off the stops and improve the overall safety of the staircase/steps. It also gives a cleaner finish to each step. We have different types of nosing, some that lock into the boards and others that have to be attached to a stair base.
In short, flooring trims are designed to bridge the gap between two floors, a floor and a door, or the edge of a step. We have trims to bridge the gap between same height floors and several different height floors too.
To figure this out you’ll need to know how many boxes of which vinyl floor you’re going for. Then, you have to use one of our formulas depending on the floor you’ve chosen and its tile size.
Underlays are essential to keep the floor stable and to set a level base to install your floor on top of. If you have a concrete subfloor or underfloor heating, you’ll need an underlay with a Damp-Proof Membrane (DPM). If you have a wooden subfloor, you can often use a simply foam underlay, but we sell an array of options designed to reduce sound etc.
We have underlays for all of our floor types designed to reduce sound. For laminate/engineered, we would recommend the Natura Gold or the Quickstep Transitsound. For solid, we would recommend the WorkProPlus, and for LVT we would recommend either Karndean Versilay or Quickstep Livyn Basic.
We offer next day delivery on most of our products, but if your product is cut to order or has to be ordered in it may take a little longer. It can also depend on where you are situated, for example the highlands of Scotland may take a day longer to arrive.
If you’re not in to accept your delivery, we can normally ask the drivers to wait for 10 minutes if someone can make it to the address within that time. If not, the goods will go back to local depot and you will need to contact us to re-arrange the delivery. You may be charged a re-delivery fee.
We ask you to check over the packs upon delivery to identify any obvious damages. If there are any damages at this point, sign for the goods as damaged and give us a call straight away. If you notice there are damages after opening the package that causes the goods to be unusable, give us a call and we will organise replacements.
Delivery to mainland UK is free on all orders over £500 Inc VAT, and £20 for orders under £500 Inc VAT. Small or light items and orders under £150 Inc VAT, there will be a £10 delivery charge. All samples are free of charge.
We do offer a range of finance options depending on the order value and the products you are ordering, approval subject to status. There is no deposit required, and most applications are approved instantly via our online order system.
We accept a wide range of payment methods over the phone, instore and online. All Visa, Mastercard, Maestro and debit/credit cards and PayPal are accepted.